Tuesday 19 May 2009

Batumi (aka Butter) Georgia

Crossing the border into Georgia and only one thing is on my mind... khachapuri Acharuli. So even though we had a late lunch and are do to meet up at 7:30 for a Georgian buffet evening, right after checking into the boat hotel, I head out on my own to find a little place called Lunga that is apparently one of the best places to try this Adjaran specialty. The two old ladies in the cafe speak no English and so when I order a khachapuri, what hey bring me doesn't look remotely like how it was described to me. But that is because there are a couple of different types of khachapuri. But with some sign language, we rectify the problem and one of the ladies indicates that it will take 10 minutes to cook. No problem... I have been waiting a heck of a lot longer to try this. In the meantime, I will sit and ponder why on earth Natakhtari beer seems to boast that they have been around since... 2004! Maybe just to distinguish itself from their principal rivals who were around during the communist days?

Anyway the khachapuri comes and I still don't see the lightly fried egg on top, even though one of the ladies made a point to ask me if I wanted the egg. Oh, now I see it is just below the two enormous hunks of butter. Given that it is also filled with melted cheese and is the size of an american football, this is a heart attack on a plate. But damn it was good. Now just an hour and half till the buffet starts....

Oh, for a Deuchers

It is hard to complain about the beer we have had so far, particularly given that we have passed through both Germany and the Czech Republic. And even Efes from Turkey isn't a bad drop. But what I wouldn't give for a proper British ale. As we get into warmer and warmer climes, that view may change, but for now this is the one bit of 'home' that I am missing.

Trabzon and last chance for Turkish

The Black Sea coast has its own cuisine, distinct from the rest of Turkey. The problem is, it hasn't been so easy to find. Have been on the look-out the last few days for Laz Boregi, a borek stuffed with confectioner's custard, instead of the traditional cheese, meat or spinach. But despite going into about every borek shop in Trabzon, couldn't find it. So instead (and in addition to a traditional borek), I had to settle for a lahmacun from Seyidoglu. Lahmacun is similar to a pide (Turkish Pizza), but with a thinner and crispier crust. Can hardly complain when you get a filling meal for ~ $0.80 served by friendly staff.


Monday 4 May 2009

Kardesler ~ for tandir

Restaurant - Urgup, Turkey


Ok, I know I am a bit late in starting the food blog being as we have already covered all of Europe (which does have some great food) and are halfway through Turkey. But there is some sort of lame logic that I have other then simple lazyness. All the area covered so far was to places I had already been were I was simply reacquainting myself with previous taste highlights. Anyway, enough of that and on to the first review.


Hitched a ride on Calypso into Urgup. Most people were going for the carpet shop (or more likely for the free Pide on offer at the carpet shop). But my intention was to have Tandir, which is a stew cooked in clay pot wrapped in bread. I suppose it is sort of an early version of a bread bowl soup.


So we headed to a simple restaurant called Kardesler just off the main square where I ordered a Guvec Tandir w/ lamb for 8 lira. The lamb wasn't the nicest, but the flavor in the broth more then made up for that. It was fabulous. A simple stew on a cold day with heaps of flavor - rating out of 10: 8. But of course I still had room for my free pide at the carpet shop. Won't complain about it (as it was free), but it couldn't compare to the tandir.


We also picked up a bottle of local wine (Turasan's Peribaca '06) in a shop. Will let you know how it was once we have opened it.